Daytripper: Miami Beach

I know what you're thinking. Eric, Miami Beach is just a hotbed for dance clubs with 40 dollar covers, big latin dudes cruising Washington Ave in Ferraris, and women who are in such a different league that they're not even playing the same sport as you. Well, let me emphatically jump in and say that you couldn't be more wrong! In fact, I will personally accompany you on the following proposed tour if need be.

First, though, the history lesson.

One of the biggest allures about Miami Beach (I will never be caught saying "South Beach") for me is the amazing history it has enjoyed. In the 20's, the city experienced its first boom with millions of northerners pouring down south along Flagler's railroad. The hot spots were Ocean Drive and Lincoln Road. The depression and a series of terrible hurricanes hit Miami hard, leaving it in a sad state of affairs.

Post World War II saw a second resurgence in popularity as the "North Beach" was developed. This boom featured the emergence of famous resorts such as the Fontaienbleau and the Eden Roc. These were much farther north than Ocean and Lincoln, and featured all encompassing entertainment (shops, restaurants, clubs, casinos, etc). It became the southern haven for famous performers such as Frank Sinatra. The new group of tourists had no need to travel farther south to the old part of town and most of it lay derelict and forgotten for years.



In 1960, famous Miami architect, Morris Lapidus was hired to revamp Lincoln road. He created the fountains, sculptures, amphitheater, and pedestrian street mall we see today. As a result, splendor and success returned to "south beach." Over time, however, it became more of a retirement home and the young tourist crowd stopped paying attention. The city was devolving into a sorry, neglected state of affairs until the 1980's when a revolution came. Contrary to popular belief, the revolution was televised, and it was called Miami Vice. Money started pouring back into the city. Through the hard efforts of a few locals, the amazing Miami Modern (MiMo) architecture began to be preserved and celebrated. Neon sign dealers became millionaires, and the city began it's most recent comeback. As the 80s and 90s progressed, more and more work went into the city. The preservation efforts attracted international attention and the city turned back into the world's playground.


I owe my love of Miami Beach to my old friend Phil. After graduating from UM, he returned for business and was staying on the beach. Through some research in the Miami New Times, he discovered several hidden gems, all of which would become regular players in our nighttime adventures.

First up, start your night at The Abbey Brewing Company

1115 16th Street

Adorned with a lone green neon sign simply stating "Bar," the Abbey defines "off the beaten path." Housed in a small strip mall that at its peak co-hosted a small grocery and a TV repair shop, the Abbey is easy to pass by. Far far from the chaos of Ocean Drive and Washington Ave, the Abbey is the type of place that friends of friends go to. Knowing about it immediately affects the value of your character when meeting another regular. They serve 4 of their own home brews along with a respectable selection of craft and micro brews from around the world. They never stoop to the level of catering to a mass appeal crowd and you won't find any bottles of Anheuser Busch products here. In fact, the cheapest thing I've ever seen there is Honey Brown. The beers are definitely priced for Miami 6-10 dollars on average, but the place is worth it alone for the atmosphere. It's small and dark yet cozy and warm all at the same time. They always have good music playing and you can catch any relevant Miami sporting event on their two TV's. It's the perfect place to start your night because there is almost always parking on Alton between 16th and 15th.


From the Abbey, head one block north to Lincoln Road, my favorite night spot in Dade County. Walk several blocks east as you people watch until you end up at the classy Van Dyke Cafe : 846 Lincoln Road

Downstairs is a restaurant that shares a menu with the News Cafe (another Miami staple), but upstairs is where the magic is.

Clubs like the Van Dyke are a fading artform. What it houses is so fragile in fact that it's actually dying as we speak. For years, it housed the finest live jazz in Dade county in one of the sexiest rooms around. You could order a Mojito (made the old fashioned way) and sit in a dimly lit corner, taking in the jazz while periodically engaging in philosophical conversations with your drinking mates. Every single night of the week would feature jazz of some form, yet currently they have been booking more mass appeal acts. This brings a tear to my eye, as one of the most authentic things on the beach is slowly giving way to mass appeal. Be sure to check it out while you still can (scope out the calendar before you go to make sure you're not going to be watching a Steely Dan cover band).

After a few Mojitos, head downstairs and 2 blocks down to Zeke's Roadhouse : 625 Lincoln Road

Zeke's is another magical place that only friends of friends know. It's housed in an unassuming portion of Lincoln Road and would easily pass of as just another bar if it weren't for the menu of 100 beers that ALL COST 4 DOLLARS! You can't buy some of these beers for 4 dollars in Gainesville and here we are in Miami Beach, the capital of overpriced drinks. There really is no bargain better than Zeke's on the beach. You can literally get the same microbrews that the Abbey has for half the price. I don't know how they stay in business, nor do I care.

Finally, after all that alcohol, you'll need something to eat. Look no further than Pizza Rustica, the best pizza in Miami Beach.
605 Lincoln Rd (there are two other locations on Washington Ave, but since this one opened up, I haven't had any need to head to them)

A "slice" will run you about 4 bucks and it is HUGE. They serve you a rectangle cut into 6 smaller pieces. They typically feature at least 15 different pies with some of the most unusual topping combinations. My favorite is the three mushroom and when I ate meat, the Hawaiian. You really can't find better food at a better price in the whole city.

All in all, I've grown to love Miami Beach for the well kept secrets, the places the regulars go to. When you walk in, you know you'll be greeted with a nod of approval and for good reason. If you look hard enough, sometimes you find quality hidden amidst a bunch of superficial crap. And so it is with Miami Beach.